Coat construction



Jan. 2 7, 1948.

J. GIUSEFFL COAT CONSTRUCTION Filed Oct.

l l l I I I I l l I IN V EN TOR.

Jemima BY Patented Jan. 27, 1948 Jerome Giusefli, Cincinnati,

Goodall-Sanford, Inc

poration of Maine Ohio, assignor' to.

Sanford, Maine,- a cor- Application October-8, 1945, Serial No. 621,125

1 Claim. (01. 2-93) The present invention relates to improvements in coat constructions and is particularly directed to a means for securing free arm movements in coats having standard armholes of substantially oval shape, and of conventional size and marginal extent.

An object of the invention is to provide a simplified and effective coat and sleeve arrangement which permits unhampered movements of the wearers arm especially when they are in raised and forwardly extending positions.

Another object of the invention is to provide a coat construction having the foregoing advantages which may be manufactured in the same manner and in the same period of time as ordinary garments of similar cut and style.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel sleeve construction which when secured to the armhole of a coat and folded upon itself creates a cresent shaped fold which provides a greater surplus of material adjacent the rear, lower edge portion of the armhole, said excess fold material diminishing in extent in a forward direction and an upward direction from said portion and terminating at the lower, front portion of the armhole at a point considerably beneath the horizontal center line of the armhole, and

extending upwardly to a point midway of the upper part of said armhole, whereby the sleeve permits greater freedom of movement of the wearers arm when it is in raised, forwardly extending positions, whilst providing adequate surplus sleeve material for other forwardly extended and overhead arm movements.

Other objects of my invention will be apparent from the following description and drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment of my invention.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a coat turned inside out and doubled upon itself for fully disclosing the construction of this invention adjacent the coat armhole.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken on line 2-2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the two pieces of material forming the sleeve of the coat construction.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of two pieces of material comprising a front part and back part of the coat, a dotted line, fragmental view of the undersleeve piece being imposed thereon to indicate the sleeve position relative to the coat body when the sleeve is in raised, forwardly extending position.

. The numeral 1 indicates the body portion of a 2 coat which may be of any suitable construction and as illustrated in the accompanying drawing is preferably of the jacket type. This coat has opposed front pieces Band joined b ack pieces 9 sewed together in the usual manner, the adjacent front and back pieces forming oval arm holes H] which have a somewhat larger lateral opening than the arm holes in ordinary or conventional coats of similar cut or design. The interior side of the shoulder and upper back portions of the coat may be provided with a lining l2, and may have a padding 13 (Fig. 2) interposed between the coat body and the lining, if desired.

Each sleeve I 4 of the coat is constructed from two pieces of material referred to hereinafter as the top piece l5 and the under piece IS. The adjacent edges l1 and I8 of the pieces l5 and 16 respectively are joined together by a longitudinally extending sewed seam 19, whilst the edges 20 and 2l' respectively of the pieces are joined by a longitudinal seam 22, the resulting sleeve construction having a, continuous inner edge for attachment to the marginal edge of the coat armhole l0.

As is most clearly illustrated in Fig. 3 the inner armhole attaching end of this under piec I6 is provided with an under arm extension 23 having a maximum width at its central portion and tapering end portions extending transversely from opposed sides of the central portion. The margins of said extension are determined by a generally flattened S-shaped edge 24 of the under piece l6, and a broken line 25 representing the transverse edge of a conventional sleeve of ordinary longitudinal extent. The under piece is also provided with a triangularly shaped lateral extension 26 determined by the outer longitudinal edge 21 of a conventional sleeve under piece and the longitudinal edge 28 of the present under piece Hi.

The top piece 15 may be provided with a general V-shaped extension 29 which is bounded by the outer longitudinal edge 30 and the inner transverse edge 3| thereof and by the intersection of the longitudinal edge 3'2 and the transverse edge 33 of a conventional top sleeve for a garment of a similar cut or design as the coat illustrated herein.

When the sleeve having the pieces l5 and I6 is attached to the armhole III, the extension 23- forms an inclined underarm fold 34 which has the greatest amount of surplus material at the rear, lower edge portion of the armhole and which extends upwardly from said portion in diminishing proportions to a point midway of the upper part of the armhole, and also extends forwardly from said portion to a relatively lower point on the forward portion of said armhole (Fig. 1). As is illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 4 this inclined, underarm extension permits free, unhampered movements of the wearers arms especially when they are in raised and forwardly extending positionsrindicated bythedotted line po'sitionof the under piece 16. l

It will therefore be noted that I have provided a coat construction which permits undisturbed and free movements of the wearers arms and.

which may be manufactured in a manner similar to that followed in making ordinary garments and which requires only a minimum amount of additional material adjacent the armhole attachment edge of the garment sleeve.--

What is claimed is:

A garment having an oval-shaped armhole; a garment sleeve provided with a continuous inner edgeiattachedito the armhole, an arcuate crease line for'the sleeve disposedadjacent to and spaced inwardly from the armhole, said arcuate crease line extending "around the back of the sleeve and between'a point' midway-of the upper part of the 25 armhole and a point in the lower front part thereof, and a crescent shaped fold in the sleeve extending outwardly from the crease line to the armhole, said fold permitting unhampered sleeve movement in forwardly extended and overhead arm positions and providing the greatest width of fold material at the rear lower portion of the sleeve to permit maximum freedom of arm movement for the sleeve in raised, forwardly extended positions.

JEROME GIUSEFFI.

REFERENCES CITED Thejfollowing references are of record in the file ojr'gtlrisjvatgeni' 

